bigwave

This is my favourite moment in surfing. When an absolute bomb is steaming on to you and you know you are in the perfect position to catch it. Head down, full commitment and every thought and molecule in your body is focussing in on the here and now. Nothing else matters than this exact moment in time, your mind stops, your body takes over. Paddle.... feeling the wave approaching... pushing..lifting....trusting yourself you can do this!!
Thanks again @juicylemonglider for capturing this epic moment
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